Dear Diarhea,







Waking up is hard to do. Or at least this early it is! But I don't care, it was sooo worth it, because yesterday afternoon the waves were fuckin' great, (finally, dag!) and I think this morning they could even be better. This swell is west north west, somethin' somethin', I'm trying to learn, but all I know is it was going off in an excellent way, big and beautiful, but longer than anybody's business and peaking way the hell outside and all over the place, so even though there were of course 300 Sunday surfers out there all wanting to experience the terrible beauty, it was so spread out that there was room for everybody, so I didn't have to fight the 20-year-old junior choads for every good wave. I better start calling Sea Monkey now. It's gonna take a massive effort to get her up and out the door, possibly hours. Which might be ok since I read on the geek report that there was a "radical" high tide this morning, like 6 feet or something, so with all that water moving in it could put a damper on the wave size till mid-morning anyway. There was a time not too long ago when we were terrified of anything over 2 or 3 feet, but now we're junkies who want more! At least if they're the right friendly shape. OOH I'm ALL ESSITED!!!