Q: How does the Self get over the Self?











A: The Self goes to the point and allows itself to be bitch-slapped by several big waves. Then the Self catches two really KILLER waves and has two not only sweet but also very MAD rides. The left (frontside) was very long and exciting, passing through several stages of development. It started out kind of medium, then flattened a bit & threatened to fade out into nothing, so the Self made its way towards the nose to gain speed. By the way, the Self is getting closer to the nose all the time and hopes to get a cheater five sometime soon. Suddenly the dud wave began to lift up & reform, revealing a steeper little region coming up, so the Self inched a little more forward and pushed it's board over the little "cliff" and down the slide, made it, & scooched back. Fuck yes is what I say. Just in time for the wall to lift up more and even threaten to barrel. The Self crouched down in anticipation of said barrel, which never quite happened, but the wall of green nevertheless allowed for a long, rocket-like trajectory into a happier mood.

The other mad ride was a biggish, steepish right, which is backside for a goofyfoot Self. Meaning right foot in front, wave peeling to the right, Self travelling right, so Self must ride with back to wave, not so easy when Self is kooky spaz. Self managed to do it pretty well, Self is getting better. Said wave was actually kind of majestic for a few seconds, then began to section and crumble to the right, but the Self, being ever resourceful, turned her head to the left, noticed a nice, sweeping opportunity, and somehow managed to turn winnebago-like heavy longboard to the left and finish out the ride frontside.