I'm bumming on Malibu
Not having it. Not feeling it. Went out the other day, during "the first decent swell all season" there, and yes, the waves were magnificent, but utterly littered with choad. Thousands of them it seemed. Choads from miles around. Desperate, aggro, and lacking all courtesy. I'd see a wave coming in at first point, and 8 choads would paddle for it, all in a row. 2 would pull out, 6 would make it, 2-3 of them would collide or nearly collide as they snaked the hell out of each other, and the other 700 of us would sit there watching. It was so gross. I've never seen anything like that in San Diego. You just don't do that shit where I normally surf. The ladays there seemed way nicer, but many of them are like the best long boarders around, so how can I ever hope to get a wave in such a setting?
Even thinking about it makes me sad....which is why I was so happy and relieved to find this.