How else can I say it? San Onofre is a beautiful place and I love it.
It's kind of huge and offers many choices.
On a good day, under the right conditions, you will get so many long & sweet rides that you will even forget for a minute that you did something very cool on one of your first waves of the day there, and that is a thing called:
SWITCHFOOT!
Plus, there is nobody there but ultra sweet, mellow, old school people, like Chris and Ty here, who are so nice that you again get distracted from the fact that you did a switchfoot,* even though you are still technically a spastic kook.
*Switchfoot, for non-OCD non-surfers, is a surfer who can ride comfortably with either foot forward. It is also just the act of switching your feet, mid-ride. It usually gets done when you are going back side, with your back to the wave, and you want to face the wave instead. For example, if you are goofyfoot, like me, which is right foot forward, and you were going right on a wave yesterday at San Onofre, and it is easy breaking enough to try, you might suddenly bring your left foot to the front and continue along without wiping out like you've been doing it for a while now. Fuck yes. Eye of the tiger.
Here is an example of the great Linda Benson doing a switchfoot. It's in the early film footage, I think on the third wave, when she's wearing the white shirt.