I figured, what better way to celebrate the two-year anniversary of Team Shredder than to glide across the glassy, peeling, big waves at Cardiff Reef?It was mid-morning, perfect Santa Anna-like conditions, and the crowd was VERY small and nice. The water was clear, and I could see all the way down to the bottom. Lots of cute little fish down there, looking like shiny metal trinkets when the sun caught them just right. All would be calmer and stiller than usual, with the high pressure pressing down on the surface of the water to smooth it out. Then a set would roll in, rising up into beautiful shape rather quickly and dramatically. I fucking love reef.
The only flaw in this otherwise perfect morning was me wishing that the waves would stay up longer sometimes and peel a little further. Because I don't know how to be grateful. But the tide had already hit bottom and was slowly coming back up, and I think the rule of thumb with these reefs is that they prefer when it is coming in and not going out. Will I ever really know. Plus more swell was due in the next day, and we were starting to get little hints of it. Perhaps these two elements were just what we needed, because we started to get bigger sets that were further outside, and thus peeling longer! Madre Mer! The magic of fall is upon us.