Subject: Nothing in Particular
In recent surfing news, The Capt'n's favorite board, The Green Rocket, is once again in the repair shop, this time due to a significant delamination. The price will be hefty but worth it, it is certain. A reasonable person might consider taking better care of their beloved boards. In the meantime, The Capt'n continues to flail about on The Snow Pony.
Speaking of flailing about: yesterday there were two more firsts. The first first was a go on a 14' board. 14 foot I said! Sitting in the lineup, I commented on my neighbor's huge board, and the nice neighbor on it immediately offered to switch boards and let me try. I was nervous and excited, but it was so worth feeling those feelings in order to have an awesome new experience. I usually ride a 9 or 9'2". 5 more feet makes a huge diff, considering 2" makes a diff. NEEDLESS TO SAY, the glide was just unbelievable. I said the ride was so smooth, you must be a limosine. But I simply could not turn the dang thing. Two little waves were enough embarrassment for one day, though I probably should have given myself more of a chance. I give me an A for effort, and a C- for results. Cash value on an awesome new experience: priceless.
The second first was that The aforementioned Capt'n surfed for 6 hours yesterday. 3 usually exhausts me, but the waves were so sweet, glassy, and long, long peeling, how could I resist? I am only but a man, I am not immune. Plus, here were my options: sitting in rush hour traffic on the 5 North between San Diego and Los Angeles, sitting around some dumb cafe waiting out traffic, or waiting out traffic in the long, clean peelers. For once in my life I was not tortured over a decision. At the 3-hour delirium point, a quick stop in a nearby shop for a sandwich to go, in full wetsuit and bare feet, followed by some sips of water, and reapplication of 3 more layers of sunscreen were just the ticket to get me going for another 3 hours.
The mystical healing powers of the dolphins who were gamboling nearby may have had something to do with it, too.
Another first, though not from yesterday:
The Capt'n's first stingray wound.
Seamonkey took a major bullet for the Team several years ago when she was viciously attacked by a stingray. We didn't know anything about anything then, unlike now, and it was quite a horrible experience. Poor Seamonkey69 was rolling on the sand in excruciating pain, and of course we were on an obscure beach, miles from anybody with a remedy. But brave SM69 took it on the chin, and got right back on the Snow Pony as soon as she could. A lesser man would have quit surfing altogether and gone right back to his rubik's cube. But anyway, I was partially tagged the other day. I didn't get the full dose of venom, nor did the tip of the nasty stinger tail break off and lodge itself into my foot, like what happen to poor SM69. Nor did my legs get half bit off by a shark. No rolling on the ground had to happen, no bleeding to death before getting to the beach.